Lawn Care
Lawn weeds are usually the gardener's pet headache.
Fortunately, most ordinary broad-leaved weeds can be controlled by one or more of the many weed control substances on the market. 

Not quite so easy to control are  the grass weeds which are so similar to the desirable  grasses that the chemicals which will eliminate the weeds  can also damage the true grasses. The best way to tackle these obstinate weeds is to catch them before they grow.  Chemicals such as DCPA benefin and siduron will kill the weeds as they germinate.  The herbicides should be applied evenly and regularly until the weed seeds have stopped germinating.

Crabgrass, the gardener's favorite conversation piece, can also be controlled by catching the seeds as they germinate.  If you are tackling a lawn where weeds are already well established, try one or two of the commercial  weed killers such as DSMA or MSMA, which you can find in most of the better garden stores. Some of the easiest to use weed eliminators are the so-called selective weed killers. These are mostly effective on the broad leaved weeds such as dandelion and clover.  Be careful when using these selective weed killers.  Don't spray on a windy day or even on a day with no breezes where there is the slightest chance that the spray can reach any of your prized plants or trees.

Although hardly recognized as a weed, moss can sometimes cause bald spots on a lawn, usually in  an area shaded by trees.  These areas benefit by increasing aeration and loosening the soil.

One last thought... Removing weeds from the lawn can be a satisfying task  get rid of the nuicances but remember to seed and fertilize the cleaned areas when it is safe to do so.  Nothing spoils the look of a lawn more than a series of brown or bald spots.
Lawn Repair

Repairing a lawn is pretty simple. To fix bare spots in the lawn, first remove the dead grass. Then lightly scrape the soil to loosen it. What is done from this point on depends on the type of grass growing. If it's a spreading variety such as Bermuda or zoysia or buffalo grass, don't do anything, because in time the grass will grow into and quickly fill such a small area.  For a clump-forming grass such as fescue or rye, seed the area. Scatter a handful of seeds on the ground, press them firmly into the soil and keep the area moist until the seeds germinate, usually within a week.

Bare Spot From Tree Removal

Removing a tree can leave large roots, which can create problems. First, dig up the rotten roots to create a hole. Fill the hole with compost, or if compost isn't available, use some store-bought topsoil instead. Again, it depends on the type of grass in the yard as to what step is next.

Compacted Soil

Soil that is compacted by the addition of a new driveway and sidewalks needs to be amended. Depending on the amount of sun that the area gets, either shade-tolerant or soil-tolerant grass can be planted. The first step involves removing as many weeds as possible while being careful to leave what little grass is growing. Unfortunately, rototilling isn't practical in this area because a lot of roots lie beneath the soil, so add a two- or three-inch layer of sifted compost or topsoil directly on top of the soil to amend it. Loosen the subsoil with a pitchfork, rake the area smooth and begin placing the grass in the form of sod or plugs.
I would hurl words into this darkness and wait for an echo,and if an echo sounded, no matter how faintly, I would send other words to tell, to march, to fight, to create a sense of hunger for life that gnaws in us all.
Richard Wright
If daffodil or tulip buds are visible and frost threatens, cover and protect them with a old sheet or a lightweight fabric row cover. Leaves are hardy and won't be damaged by a frost.
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