Aphids or Plant lice are most commonly green; however some species are black, pink, or yellow. They are small (only 2 tenths inch) soft-bodied insects. Clusters of aphids are commonly found on peas. They damage plants by sucking the sap out of the stems, curling and yellowing the leaves. While feeding they can inject poisonous saliva or organisms which can cause diseases. The insect secretes a liquid called honeydew which can grow mold fungus.
Control aphids with Diazinon, Malathion, or Thiodan
insecticides. Organic alternatives are spraying with soapy water, squashing between the fingers for small infestations, or increasing the numbers of ladybugs, lacewings, and wasp parasites in your garden.
Asparagus beetle
The Asparagus beetle is a slender, 1/4 inch long beetle
blue-black in color with a reddish head and three yellow squares on each wing cover. This little devil wreaks havoc on asparagus by chewing on the shoots and often completely defoliating the plants.
Control this pest by dusting with pyrethrum or rotenone
insecticides. An organic approach to getting rid of this beetle is not known other than turning loose some chickens or ducks in the garden to have a snack. Prevention is about the best thing, cleaning up leaves and trash to keep the beetle from finding a comfortable home to overwinter in.
Bean leaf beetle
Bean leaf beetles (two tenths inch long) are generally red to
yellow in color with a black band on the edges of the first pair of wings. Some may have three to four spots on the back. They overwinter in the garden, emerging in the spring to feed on the underside of young bean and pea leaves.
Insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, and Sevin. The
organic approach is to hand pick and to plant as early in the
spring as possible.
Blister beetles
Blister beetles are long, slender, three-fourths inch long
beetles; either gray, black, or striped in color. They feed on
leaves and flowers. To control this beetle use Thiodan insecticide. Hand pick to control them organically, but be sure to wear gloves as this nasty little bug gives off a caustic fluid hence its name.
Cabbage loopers
The Cabbage looper or Cabbage worm is a pale yellow, green, or brown caterpillar one inch in length. They often have light stripes going down the back and a yellow head. They chew large holes in leaves and eat their way into the heads of cabbage and collards type plants.
Control cabbage worms with Diazinon, Malathion, or Sevin
insecticides. An organic cure is Bacillus Thuringiensis, which
will give the worm a big time, life ending tummy ache; and, of course, if you do not mind green and yellow guts squash the little bugger.
Cabbage maggots
Cabbage maggots are white maggots one third inch in length. Left uncontrolled the maggot will develop into a fly, dark gray with black stripes on the thorax. The maggot attacks the plant from just below the soil surface, creating brownish tunnels in the stems. The plant will turn yellow, wilt, and eventually die.
To control the maggot you need to control the fly that lays the egg. Try covering rows with a fine mesh netting such as heesecloth and as usual planting as early as possible will reduce the number of pests that have hatched out yet.
Carrot rust flies
The Carrot rust fly lays its eggs near carrots just below the
surface of the soil. The maggots then bore their way into the
roots of carrots and similar plants, causing a rusty coloration
and rotting the plant. Crop rotation will help to control the problem.
Carrot weevils
The Carrot weevil is a one eight to one fourth inch copper or
dark brown colored weevil. This weevil lays eggs which hatch a white grub. The grub attacks the plant's roots and feeds on them for a couple of weeks before emerging from the soil, by then the damage is done.
The weevil overwinters in garden debris and weeds. keeping a clean garden will help to control this pest. Deep tilling will
also help in destroying in weevils or grubs that are still at home.
Chinch bug
Chinch bugs start out as nymphs, reddish in color with a white band across the middle. They then change to black with a white band. The adult chinch bug is black with white wings and a triangular black spot on each wing. This bug is known for the destruction it can cause to lawns, sucking the sap out of the bases of grass blades and causing discoloration. Grass will have the same appearance as a lawn that is going through a dry spell, changing the grass color from green to yellow and then to brown. In the garden the chinch bug creates similar problems.
Keeping your garden free of grass and weeds will help. To control grass and weeds try planting some peas or beans amongst the corn crop to shade the base of the plants and reduce weed growth.
Colorado potato beetles
The Colorado potato beetle, one fourth inch in length, is
yellow with fine black stripes on its wing covers. It lays
clusters of yellow looking eggs on the underside of leaves. From these hatch the grub, red in color with two rows of black dots on each side and a black head. These destructive little grubs are capable of quickly defoliating potato plants and other related plants.
Insecticides include Diazinon, Sevin, and Thiodan. Some organic approaches are to: handpick the yellow eggs; spray with extract of basil; plant marigold, garlic, or horseradish amongst the plants to help repel the pest; or in the case of potatoes, try growing them on top of the soil using straw or similar material to keep the plant covered.
Corn Earworms
The Corn earworm or Tomato Fruitworm is yellow-green, brown, or pinkish in color with light stripes on their sides and back. These little yellow headed monsters are capable of growing up to two inches in length. On corn they attack the tassels and ears, causing damage to the fruit and problems with pollination when they eat on the silk. It is a common site to shuck an ear of corn, finding the worm eating away at the tip of the corn. They also can also damage corn leaves before the plant has a chance to
mature. On tomatoes the worm feeds on the leaves before eating into the green fruit. The corn earworm can also be found doing similar damage on a wide variety of plants.
To control the pest use Sevin or Thiodan insecticides in liquid or dust forms; or dust with Diazinon. To control organically use Bacillus thuringiensis on corn and rotenone on tomato plants.
Cowpea Curculio
The Cowpea curculio is a tiny black beetle which is rarely
seen. In general curculios have a head with a long snout and biting parts at the tip. They hatch a white grub which feeds on the developing seeds within the pods of beans and peas.
Insecticides include Sevin or Thiodan in liquid or dust forms and Diazinon in the dust form. The organic approach would be to simply keep a clean garden, free of debris, so as not to give the beetle a place to overwinter in. In the spring tilling the ground deep will help to destroy any grubs that are still around.
Cucumber beetles
Cucumber beetles are one fourth inch long with a black head. The Striped cucumber beetle has yellow wing covers with three black stripes running the length of its body. The Spotted cucumber beetle has a yellow-green body with twelve black spots on its back. The biggest threat from this beetle is from the host of bacterial diseases it can carry, in particular cucumber wilt. It also feeds on the blooms of a variety of ornamental flowers.
Insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, Sevin, and Thiodan. To control organically, dust with rotenone. Crop rotation and heavy mulching are also a plus.
Cutworms
Cutworms are dull colored gray, brown, or black caterpillars of night-flying moths. Some may have a few bristly hairs. They do most of their damage at night, hiding during the day curled up just below the top of the soil. The main destruction comes from the cutworms eating away at young plant's stems at soil level, basically chopping the plant down. Some varieties will climb the plant, feeding on leaves and fruit.
The insecticide Diazinon can be used prior to planting, tilling
the soil two to three inches deep immediately. Organic methods are: Place a swizel stick right up next to young plants. That way the worm can not cut all the way around the base of the plant. Put a cardboard collar around the plant one inch deep or so. Scatter crushed egg shells or mulched oak leaves around the plants. Cultivating close to plants will help to destroy any worms just below the soil; and as usual, keeping a clean weed- free garden will deter the moth from laying its eggs in your garden.
European Corn Borers
This caterpillar is one inch long, flesh in color, with brown
spots and a dark brown head. They attack corn stalks, tassels, and ears. A number of other vegetables are effected by this pest, including several ornamental flowers.
To control corn borers, be sure to burn or till under old
cornstalks where they frequently overwinter. For small cases,
hand picking will help. For bigger problems, an organic solution is Bacillus Thuringiensis.
Flea Beetles
This small (no more than one sixteenth of an inch) jumping
beetle chews small round to irregular shaped holes in leaves, giving the appearance of the plants being peppered with fine shot.
Treat with Sevin insecticide to get rid of the beetle. Organically speaking, a clean garden will help. Also, interplanting with garlic or dusting with rotenone can aid in
repelling it.
For Insect Problems:
One thing that is always good to repel insects is a mixture of one squirt of Ivory dish washing liquid and one gallon water. Put in a squirt bottle and spray leaves and dirt with mixture any time you notice insects. This is espeially good for spider mites.
Grasshoppers
Grasshoppers are green, gray, or brown in color and grow one to two inches in length. This is not always a harmful insect; but in some parts of the country can be a serious problem, chewing and destroying plants.
One organic solution is to mix hot peppers, soap, and water;
however spraying is generally ineffective. Covering plants with a fine mesh, such as cheesecloth, can help to protect plants. Also, try setting traps of jars containing syrup or molasses.
Green stink bugs
Stink bugs are one half inch in length and green or brown in
color. As their names imply, they emit an unpleasant odor when crushed. They do their damage by sucking the sap out of developing pea and bean pods. Stink bugs can also be seen in numbers on ripe tomatoes, puncturing and damaging the fruit.
Use Sevin or Thiodan insecticides for control. Organically,
hand picking with gloves is difficult. Spraying with soap and
water may be somewhat helpful.
Harlequin bugs
Harlequin bugs are one third to one half inch long. They are
black in color with yellow, orange, or bright red markings. The bug sucks the sap out of collards, cabbage, mustard, and turnips. Plants wilt, turn brown, and eventually die.
The insecticide Sevin helps control the problem. Organic methods are as follows: Try planting some turnips near the
effected vegetable you are trying to protect. The bug will be
attracted by the turnips, where you can gather up and destroy the pest. Soap sprays, sabadilla, and pyrethrum also will control the pest.
Imported cabbage worms
The Imported cabbage worm is a one inch long caterpillar,
bright green in color with short fine hair. The adult is a white
butterfly with three spots on the wings. In early spring yellow
eggs are laid at the bottom of leaves where they hatch the worm. They destroy cabbage and lettuce, feeding on the leaves.
Control the pest organically with Bacillus thuringensis and
rotenone. Keeping a clean garden will also help to keep the worm from making home. A fine mesh cheesecloth netting will help protect plants.
Japanese beetles
Japanese beetles are shiny green with copper colored wings. The beetle is about one half inch in length. The adult feeds on the flowers and foliage of effected plants, while the young one inch long grub feeds on the plants roots.
Organically, control these by hand picking or treating with
rotenone.
Leafhoppers
There are a few different kinds of leafhoppers, but all have
the typical wedge shaped body and hold their wings in a rooflike position when sitting still. Most are usually yellow, green, or white and as their name implies are jumping insects. They cause damage by sucking the sap from the underside of leaves, which leads to loss of plant color and vigor. Also, leafhoppers carry a host of diseases and viruses.
An organic approach would be to keep a clean weed-free garden and treating the pest with rotenone, pyrethrum, or nicotine preparations.
Leafminers
Leafminers are small grub or caterpillars that tunnel their way through the upper and lower surfaces of plant leaves, eating leaf tissue as they go. This leads to either a blotchy or yellowish foliage color.
The insecticide Malathion gets rid of some types of leafminers. To control organically, simply pick and burn the effected leaves.
Melon worm
Control the Melon worm with Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan
insecticides. Organically, Bacillus thuringiensis will rid the
problem.
Mexican bean beetles
The Mexican bean beetle is an extremely destructive pest. They start out as fuzzy yellow larvae, commonly seen on beans and peas. The adult beetle is one third inch or less in length and yellow to copper in color with 16 black spots on the back. At first glance this appears to be just another friendly little lady bug, but don't be fooled. The beetle rapidly attacks many varieties of bean and pea plants, turning the plant into nothing but a skeleton.
Control this pest with Diazinon, Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan
insecticides. To control organically, rotenone does a good job. Keep garden debris to a minimum and hand pick any larvae or beetles found. Interplanting marigolds will help to repel them also.
Nematodes
Nematodes are tiny, almost invisible, worms which feed on and enter a plants root system, causing knots to form on the roots. This generally causes stunted plant growth and plants often die.
Crop rotation is the best way to control this problem without
the need for pesticides. Use plenty of organic fertilizers and
mulches to encourage the growth of beneficial bacteria, protozoa, and fungi. The fungi basically attack and feed on the nematodes.
Onion maggots
Onion maggots are one third to one fourth inch long white
maggots. The greatest threat of damage comes during a very wet spring. The adult fly lays its eggs near or on the stem of the onion. The maggots often attack the leaves or neck of the stem first, which can lead to the plant appearing yellow and limp. The maggots may completely eat off the onion stem and enter the bulb where the bulb becomes an infested, rotting mess.
Onion sets are more susceptible than larger onions to the maggot. Try setting out onions as early as possible to give the onions a chance to out grow the problem before it happens. Also, you may try covering the soil with a layer of sand or wood ash.
Parsley worms
The Parsley worm or carrot worm is the larva of the black
swallow tail butterfly. The caterpillar is about two inches long and green in color with black bands, having yellow spots. When bothered, they display two orange horns from its head. In addition to parsley and carrots it can also attack celery and dill.
Control this pest organically by dusting with rotenone or hand picking.
Pepper maggots
As with all maggot problems try planting as early as possible to avoid any egg-laying flies.
Pickleworm
Young Pickleworms are light yellow with black spots. The mature caterpillar is copper or green in color and approximately three fourths of an inch long. They feed on the foliage and eat their way into the blossoms and fruit of the cucumber family of vegetables.
The insecticides Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan are good cures. Organically, dusting with Bacillus thuringiensis, keeping a clean garden, and deep tilling in the fall will help to get rid of any of the worms attempting to overwinter.
Rhubarb curculio
Details on the description of Rhubarb curculios is not
available; however curculios are generally small beetles with curved snouts and biting parts on the tips.
Control curculios organically by hand picking.
Seed maggot
Seed maggots are yellowish white maggots with pointed heads. They attack the germinating seed of corn, cucumbers, beans, peas, and melons. Sometimes the maggot will also effect cabbage, beets, onions, radishes, sweet potatoes, and turnips as young plants.
The biggest problems happen when the weather has been cool and wet, so delaying planting until the soil is warm should speed up germination reducing the opportunity for the maggot to damage seed..
Slugs
Slugs are gray to brown in color and some have spots. There are good slugs and there are bad slugs. Generally the good slugs live below the soil line and are carnivorous, feeding on wireworms, grubs, and other slugs. The good guys can be identified by a small shell on the end of their tail. The bad slugs on the other hand are above the ground creatures, preferring a vegetable diet. They feed on a variety of plants and leave a slimy little trail.
The traditional method is to purchase commercial slug baits,
but there are several successful organic methods as well. Try
pouring a small amount of beer in a shallow container, such as a saucer. The slug is attracted to the beer and drowns. Also, try cutting an orange in half and hulling it out. Lay this in the garden with a small stick underneath the orange to give the slug an entrance place under this cool shaded slug home. Check now and then to see if anyone has checked in and evict him...permanently. If you can't stand to crush the guy, then just sprinkle some salt on him. Salt and slugs don't mix. One last thing, mulch heavily with oak leaves. They don't like that either.
Snails
Snails are similar to slugs, but the main distinguishing
feature is a large shell that the can draw up into if threatened. Snails come in a variety of colors including yellow, brown, gray, and black. They range in size from one fourth inch to a whopping ten inches long. The brown garden snail is one of the most destructive snails, feeding on young plants.
Collecting snails in a bucket of salt water will exterminate
the pest, along with the traditional method which is to purchase commercial slug baits, but there are several successful organic methods as well. Try pouring a small amount of beer in a shallow container, such as a saucer. The slug is attracted to the beer and drowns. Also, try cutting an orange in half and hulling it out. Lay this in the garden with a small stick underneath the orange to give the slug an entrance place under this cool shaded slug home. Check now and then to see if anyone has checked in and evict him...permanently. If you can't stand to crush the guy, then just sprinkle some salt on him. Salt and slugs don't mix. One last thing, mulch heavily with oak leaves. They don't like that either.
Spider mites
Spider mites or Red Spider Mites are tiny, almost microscopic mites that appear as tiny red dots on the underside of leaves. The mite is particularly a problem in hot, dry weather. Leaves will turn yellow before turning brown and dropping off. Close inspection with a magnifying glass will reveal a fine webbing. They can attack any number of plants.
Spider mites can be exterminated with Diazinon or Malathion insecticides. One organic method is to simply hose the webs off of the infected leaves and also, to spray the leaves with a mixture of flour and buttermilk.
Squash bugs
Squash bugs are large, hard-shelled, flat-backed insects
growing three fourths and up to one inch in length. They are
grayish brown to brownish black in color. The adult bug hides out near the base of the plant and gives off an unpleasant odor when crushed. The legged nymph of this bug hatches out later in the season and has a green or brown body and red head. They prefer crawling around on the fruit and vines of the plant where they feed, causing the plant to wilt and die.
Control the squash bug with Sevin insecticide. Organic controls include hand picking the insect, interplanting marigolds to repel it, rotating crops, and keeping a clean, weed free garden.
Squash vine borers
Squash vine borers are plump looking caterpillars, white in
color with a brown head and short legs. They grow to about one inch in length. They tunnel their way into the stem and stalks of squash and cucumbers.
Organically control these borers by dusting the young plants
with rotenone. If you see a vine wilting, slit open the stalk and remove the borer.
Thrips
Thrips are tiny insects, almost invisible, with two pairs of
hairy fringed wings. They are black, brown, or reddish in color. The insect causes damage by rasping away at plant leaves, fruit, or flowers; and sucking the sap which escapes. The curled leaves will take on a silvery appearance.
To determine if you have these tiny insects, place a white piece of material under the suspected plant and tap the foliage. The thrips will appear as black spots on the white background. Control thrips by using Diazinon or Malathion insecticides. Organically, rotenone is very effective. As usual, keeping a weed-free garden is very important.
Tomato hornworms
This monster of a caterpillar, green in color with eight
diagonal white stripes, can grow up to four inches in length.
They have a prominent black horn on the rear end. The similar looking Tobacco hornworm has seven diagonal stripes and a red horn on the rear. These caterpillars are the larvae of the humming-bird moth with a wing span of four to five inches. They feed on the leaves and fruit of plants.
Control hornworms with Sevin or Thiodan insecticides.
Organically speaking, Bacillus Thuringiensis will eradicate the pest. Hand picking is very easy, seeing how this plump little guy is simple to grab on to. Also, be kind to the wasps in the garden for some species are natural predators of the hornworm, laying their eggs on the worm's back. If you see a hornworm with these eggs on its back, consider leaving it be to hatch out a new crop of wasps.
Whiteflies
Whiteflies are tiny insects, appearing as small white moths.
They have four pair of rounded wings and congregate on the underside of leaves. When disturbed they scatter in a cloud of white. They damage the plants by piercing leaves and sucking the sap out. Effected leaves will look speckled yellow or silvery.
Malathion or Thiodan insecticides will help to control them.
Thrips are difficult to control, but organically the small wasp
"Encarsia formosa" is a natural predator.
Wireworms
Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle. The worm is light yellowish-brown to dark brown in color with three pairs of legs and a hard-shelled segmented body. They attack the stems and root systems of plants, sometimes tunneling their way through the stem to above ground level. Most of its destruction however takes place below the soil level. The tubers of potato plants and turnips are greatly affected, where wireworms will riddle the tubers with their tunnels.
Since the wireworm takes three to four years to mature into a click beetle you may have to deal with the problem for quite a while.
The organic approach is to be sure to till the ground very
deep, as to destroy as many worms and beetles as possible. Also, a trap can be set by cutting a potato half in two and placing it just under the soil. Every couple of days check to see if anyone is at home and if so destroy the worm.
